Q: Two connected and similar questions that have been taken from the ATRI list serve.
#1 Emergency respond please!!
Just had a patient call to tell me she has an outbreak of shingles. She was in the pool Wednesday!
My question is:
DOES CHLORINE KILL THIS TYPE OF VIRUS?? Should I increase chlorine levels?
#2 We have a new patient sent to us by an orthopedic physician asking for pool therapy. The patient is very obese and shared that she has ongoing yeast infections in the skin folds of her body. She is also a diabetic. Is there some kind of a barrier cream that can be applied to the affected areas or is it not advisable for her to enter our pool.
Our population is primarily seniors and we are concerned for their well being.
Has anyone had experience with this type of yeast infections? And what have you done for them?
#1 As long as you kept residual free chlorine in your pool during and after the use of the pool you are ok and don’t need to do anything. You do want to check you maintenance log and see if the PH and CL were/are up to par. If there was not a free CL residual of one, and a correct PH level you will want to contact the health department. In that case, they will tell you what to do next. It really doesn’t matter what the bug is that your trying to kill: yeast, fungus, virus, bacteria they are no match for the oxidative / disinfection properties of free chlorine in conjunction with proper PH levels. That’s why people keep halides in their pools, to keep it safe for everyone who uses it. Of course there is always the exception such as in the case of diarrheal discharge. This is all covered in my upcoming AFO course.
#2 With regard to this person with fungal issues: If they have open sores they should not enter the pool. Otherwise, chlorine will protect pool users from transmittable illness because it kills microbes instantly, BUT you have to make sure this person baths properly with soap thoroughly before they get in. If someone gets into the pool dirty it can bring down the free residual CL quickly and that’s a big problem, one that could manifest all of your deepest fears. Does the pool have an automatic feeder monitoring ORP to keep up with the demand for chlorine to disinfect the pool? If it does and if your aquatic facility operator is keeping up with the water it’s really no different than any other day at the pool.
I have an upcoming Aquatic Facility Operator course coming up in Phoenix, Arizona November 12th and 13th geared towards to aquatic fitness community. Please consider coming if you work in the water and would like to learn about swimming pools in plain easy to understand language. This course will be eligible for continuing education credit.
Maybe you are digging your way out of winter or maybe you’ve just purchased a hot tub and are learning to start it up for the first time. Regardless, here is how to start up your hot tub the easy way. A few tricks from a professional can help you save time and money.
Step One: Remove side panels and check all your pipe connections below the tub and make sure the pipes are fit against one another with the fasteners tightened up firmly to the connection threads. Often times in cold climates operators will open these pipes up when winterizing the tub to prevent water from freezing inside, so be sure to check it before you start filling or you will have water pooling around the base of the tub. After you are sure the pipes are connected move on to step two.
Step Two: Use a self-priming drop pump inside the tub at the lowest gravity point. You can get these from Home Depot or Lowes for under $100 and they are worth their weight in gold. Connect the drop pump to a hose. Make sure the hose is outputting to a place you don’t mind dumping water, such as a drain or drainage ditch. This pump is going to act much like the pump the dentist uses in your mouth to clean your teeth. It allows your to spray debris out of tough to reach places and get rid of it easily.
Step Three: Use a garden hose with a spray nozzle to spray inside the tub, and use a rag to wipe down the inside of the tub. In some cases you may have to use some solvent to disolve the dirt and that is to be expected.
Step Four: Plug in your drop pump as soon as you have sprayed the tub out. Keep spraying and scrubbing the tub until you are happy that the tub is clean. You may also move the pump to different areas of the tub to use it as a vacuum. You don’t however want the pump to run dry as that will destroy your pump if you let it run dry too long, so make sure you keep it in the water.
Step Five: Fill the tub to the fill line and balance the water- this may take and hour or two. After the fill, test the water first with your test kit and begin balancing the water. Place the filter and turn on the electic switch. Begin to balance with the water circulating. Start with Alkalinity-> 80-120ppm. Next Calcium Hardness -> 150-200. Usually oxidizer and chlorine or bromine will need to be added next. Be sure to check the levels regularly and follow the manufacturers guidelines regarding the correct levels for your specific hot tub. Some consumer hot tubs don’t even use chemical oxidizers, but rather electronic oxidizers, some also use saline generation technology so read your manual and follow the instructions.
Follow those five easy steps and your hot tub should be ready for good times. Let me know if you have questions or comments.
Spraying out hot tub with drop pump.
Q: Should I take the CPO or AFO certification?
Q: Anybody have recommendations about what fans to use in pool areas to circulate the air?
A: It is not so much a question of what fan you need but rather how you manage your indoor air. The following is an excerpt from the Aquatic Facility Operator Manual:
Q: My facility has used chlorine in our pools with patients. (we have had very little complaints since our facility checks the water 3xdaily and makes adjustments) The facility is now looking at the new trend of rehab facilities changing to salt water pools for their patients. Does anyone have experience of using salt water? I am interested in pros, cons, and any input! Any resources would be of great help.
A: The salt used in pools is a NACL molecule. What a salt water system does is apply electricity to split those molecules to divide the NA(sodium) from the CL. CL is of course Chlorine. Instead of adding another chemical like bleach or a calcium compound, salt is inserted into the water and the Chlorine is generated using the electrical process. It is still a chlorine pool. It is more expensive to maintain if it is not maintained at the manufacturer recommended PH levels extremely consistently because of equipment failure and salt scaling in the pipes. Usually there is a better option than a salt generation system unless you just want it to capitalize on the misconception that a salt water pool is not a Chlorine pool, which is definitely financially advantageous in some cases but maybe not very honest.